7/27 Ghent to Dendermonde, Belgium. Sail to St. Amands. 52km.
After breakfast, we got on our bikes and rode through the ancient cobblestone streets to the city center of Ghent. Ghent is the capital of East Flanders and in the Middle Ages was one of the most important cities in Europe. We spent over an hour walking around the city, marveling at all the remarkably preserved and intact medieval architecture.
Our route largely followed the Schelde river. We took 2 ferry rides in the morning, crossing the river first one way and then back to avoid trail construction. Barry and Nick were busy showing off on their e-bikes and generally having fun. We stopped at a castle near Laarne, where we had lunch and then stopped at the village of Donk for ice cream.
Our final stop was in the Flemish city of Dendermonde. We toured the famous Dendermonde city hall and learned of the devastation of over half of the city's housing and archives by bombing and burning during the 1st World War.
After joining back up with the barge, we sailed to the little town of St. Amands for the night.
Markus served us a supper of puff pastry with goat cheese, salmon, and pecan pie.
After eating, Piet took us to the lovely art gallery of the sculptor Joris Maes. We enjoyed our tour and Joris's rambling dialogue about all of the meaning and origins of the design of the beautiful and interesting building that housed his studio, and of the 13 year battle, he had with city officials over its construction. Susan ended up purchasing a beautiful necklace of lapis lazuli and mountain crystal while we were there.
St Bavo's Cathedral, Ghent.
I would like to know this story.
Canal scene in Ghent.
Gravensteen Castle (Castle of the Count) built in 1180 by Philip of Alsace.
Medieval buildings in Ghent.
In front of Laarne Castle.
Annette and Tracy on a ferry.
Dendermonde.
Joris Maes, artist, sculptor, and creator of an eccentrically beautiful studio in the tiny village of St. Amands.
7/26 Bruges to Aalterbrug and sailing to Ghent. 23km.
Our first glimpse of the Sailing Home came in Bruges, Belgium, where we joined her for our trip.
After being welcomed aboard, we were assigned cabins and introduced to the boat and the crew:
Captain, Willy-Belgian
Chef, Markus-German
Guide, Piet-Dutch
Sailor, Rita-Dutch
Assistant, Riannne-Dutch
Our fellow cycle tourers consisted of twenty three fellow Americans and one Dutch aunt. There were three family groups (including ours) among this number.
We tried out our bikes on a little jaunt along the canal path and got to know our guide, Piet.
The bikes were 8 speed, triple ring, hybrid type bikes, with 700 wheels. They were equipped with a bell, lights, trip computer, and a waterproof pannier. We were all provided with a water bottle. The bicycles were purchased new this season and appeared to be in good shape.
After rejoining the boat, we hung out on the sun deck and visited with our fellow passengers, as the boat made her way to Ghent for the night.
Dinner: Cream of mustard soup, Belgian stew, served with couscous, green beans, salad, and bread. Dessert was a sorbet. Delicious!
The Sailing Home built in 2001 as a passenger ship. It has 13 cabins and can accommodate 26 passengers. It is 45 m long and 6.5 m wide.
Our spacious cabin aboard the Sailing Home was furnished with a/c and a
private bathroom. Very comfy beds, too. I slept like a baby every night.
We tried out our bikes on the first day by riding 23km to the village of Aalterbrug.
This is Piet, our Dutch guide. We all really enjoyed our time with him.
I had planned the family camping trip this summer to coincide with the annual "azalea swarm" on Gregory Bald, so that Black Betty could accompany me on the hike. She had never been and was worried somewhat about the 11 mile hike, but I kept reassuring her that it was well worth it.
Cades Cove.
Of course, the lead up to the hike was a beautiful jaunt to the back side of Cade's Cove to the trail head. The Cove was just waking up, in its magical way, sun greeting earth, and the animals were out in force. We saw many deer and turkey on our way out and also spotted a bear finding breakfast in the weeds on Forge Creek road.
Trail head.
Black Betty crossing Forge Creek.
Rosebay Rhododendron
The trail ambles pretty gently for the first 2 miles, through stands of rosebay rhododendrons, giant old-growth hemlocks, and mighty tulip poplars. It stays right alongside of pretty Forge Creek, crossing back and forth a few times on foot logs. After the easy 2 mile introduction to the trail, we arrived at back country campsite 12, where the climb really begins. From here, the trail makes a 2400' elevation gain (in 3 miles) up Gregory Ridge to reach Rich Gap. It works out to about 800 feet per mile, a pretty steady climb. We took our time, rested frequently, and joked with the hikers that we met along the way.
At Rich Gap, we joined the Gregory Bald Trail for a quick and easy 6/10 of a mile jaunt to the top.
So really, all this fuss is about a beautiful 10 acre, open, grassy bald sitting on the border of North Carolina and Tennessee in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park. It is covered in a world famous stand of wild native azaleas, which were in prime bloom while we were there on June 19th. The fragrant display was in various shades of bright reds, oranges, creams, yellows, whites, and pinks. It is pure nature in all of its beauty, and no, you can't drive a car up there. You have to put the effort in to see it and reap the reward.
Black Betty was impressed, to say the least.
I decided to make another fan video. This is Vassar Clements, Jerry Garcia, David Grisman, John Kahn, and Peter Rowan recorded in 1973. According to the album notes, Jerry sings lead on this, and on the choruses Peter sings tenor above him and Vassar adds a high baritone part above that, in a style often associated with the Stanley Brothers. All in all, it's five stellar musicians working together perfectly, laying down some sweet bluegrass. I hope you enjoy it!
Last night, the Gnometown gang caught the first night of the three night Railroad Earth's New Year's Eve run at the Orange Peel. It was a great time spent with friends and family, listening to one of our favorite bands. As a bonus, we got to hear the first live playing of the title track of Railroad Earth's upcoming album, The Last Of The Outlaws.
Here's the set list:
Set 1: Like a Buddha 420 Peace on Earth Been Down This Road Came Up Smilin' Right in Tune Where Songs Begin Carrying Coal to Newcastle --> Chasin' a Rainbow
Set 2: Mission Man Long Way To Go Drag Him Down Colorado For Love The Last of the Outlaws (A) Mourning Flies --> Lone Croft Farewell Crossing the Gap Gold Rush Elko
Encore: Water Fountain Quicksand
(A) First time played. Written by Todd Sheaffer and Carey Harmon
While looking back and reviewing all my YouTube videos and blog posts from this past year, I am beginning to realize that 2013 emerged as a pretty terrific year of live music for the Hometown gang. Black Betty and I were joined by family and friends to boogie to some of the best music ever, played by many of the most talented artists in the world. As I have said before, "There were so many incredible shows, so much inspiring music!" Here is a list of many of the incredible bands that we were fortunate enough to see in 2013:
Donna The Buffalo, Railroad Earth, Cooking With Quanta, Town Mountain, Greensky Bluegrass, Danny Barnes, Willie Nelson, Apple Butter Express, Peter Rowan, Larry Keel and Natural Bridge, The Traveling McCourys, John Prine, The Duhks, Jeff Sipe Trio, The Freight Hoppers, The Horse Flies, The Deadly Gentlemen, Solas, Tornado Rider, Col. Bruce Hampton, Ralph Roddenbery, Bibb City Ramblers, Keller and The Keels, Keller and Traveling McCourys, Taylor Martin Acoustic Band, Mavis Staples, The Corbitt Brothers, Jim Lauderdale, The Brothers Comatose, Stephen Marley, Drive By Truckers, Todd Sheaffer, Rayna Gellert, Strung Like A Horse, Grandpa's Cough Medicine, Darol Anger, Elephant Revival, Kris Kristofferson, Lizzy Ross Band, The Hackensaw Boys, Bobby Miller, Heavy Pets, Mamajowali, Apple Chill Cloggers, David Via and Curtis Burch, Scythian, The Stacks, Vagabond Swing, Leftovers Salmon, Jerry Douglas, Dread Clampitt, Yonder Mountain String Band.
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